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Much Improved over Titebond II

Franklin International Titebond 16 Ounces 1414

Franklin International Titebond 16 Ounces 1414

I did not believe the description of this glue prior to ordering. I used it to glue bumper on the bottom of my chairs to keep them from scratching and scaring my new floors, to repair antique furniture which was damaged during moving, outdoor furniture on which armrests, legs, and other parts came off due to improper manufacturing. This glue remarkedly did what it was advertised to do: It can be washed up, wiped up with a moistening towel anytime it is still wet. It gives a long time to move, and re-position, clamp and/or screw the glued pieces before setting, and once setting it is water resistant. I had used Gorilla glue and similar glues before and this was a mess. This glue eliminated the problems with the other glues and is so much more convenient and practical to use. I wish my father was alive to see this glue in operation, he would have ditched his old stand-by--Elmer's Wood Glue.

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10 Responses to “Bed”

  • Kari Jefferson says:

    Excellent initial tack but provides a decent window before setting up (about eight minutes) so one can adjust pieces. Dries a tan/brown color and so is less noticeable in many situations like edge glue ups and dark stained pieces. Cleans up with water when still wet. Doesn't sand as easily as some but thats because it stays flexible while it adheres. Takes vibration well. Be sure to apply enough for a good squeeze out and don't use hard pressure when clamping. Let it do the work.

  • Christian Sanders says:

    I have been using titebond glues for quite a spell now. They keep getting better and better.

    Titebond III has become my first choice of glue lately. For glueing up small miter joints it's the best. Has enough tack almost instantly to keep the pieces from sliding around yet gives ya a nice long open window to work the piece. Really helps when assembling small jewelry boxes and is a major assist when assembling hope chest's with mitered corners. I have used it to edge glue Padauk together for a lid on a hope chest, its a very red wood, with dark streaks thru it. My friends at the local wood worker store had a heck of time finding the joints. No biscuits needed, its as strong as any of the poly's. Cleanup is as easy as wiping with a damp rag and it seems to come off better than Titebond II, haven't noticed any problems with finish applications as I sometimes had with TbII. Don't do a lot of outdoor stuff so not really concerned about the waterproof aspect, but it is nice to know. I do a lot of work with Myrtle wood, and this glue color is perfect, the glue line completely disappears. All in all I believe this is now my first choice glue and recommend it to everyone who works with wood.

  • Deidre Garrison says:

    I did not believe the description of this glue prior to ordering. I used it to glue bumper on the bottom of my chairs to keep them from scratching and scaring my new floors, to repair antique furniture which was damaged during moving, outdoor furniture on which armrests, legs, and other parts came off due to improper manufacturing. This glue remarkedly did what it was advertised to do: It can be washed up, wiped up with a moistening towel anytime it is still wet. It gives a long time to move, and re-position, clamp and/or screw the glued pieces before setting, and once setting it is water resistant. I had used Gorilla glue and similar glues before and this was a mess. This glue eliminated the problems with the other glues and is so much more convenient and practical to use. I wish my father was alive to see this glue in operation, he would have ditched his old stand-by--Elmer's Wood Glue.

  • Sheryl Burt says:

    I use this for everything from outdoor furniture to inlay cribbage boards. Be away that this product dries brown, and should be used carefully with light colored woods

  • Tracy Mcgee says:

    Pros: Amazing glue, easy clean-up, cannot be beat

    Cons: Glue gets old (wood glue problem in general) thus no impact on rating.

  • Ron Matthews says:

    Used tightbond I, then II for years. Tried the III and can't see a reason to use anything else. Long open time, fantastic hold. I used it to glue up blanks that became croquet mallets. I purposely used only a light oil finish. These mallets took a beating, often being played with in the rain. A full season later and not even the hint of a joint separation. Also like the "non-yellow" color.

  • Ryan Gilliam says:

    Titebond III gives me a confidence that the former version didn't: colder bonding temperatures means I can leave glue-ups in the workshop overnight; greater bonding power means I don't have to rely on the messy polyurethane glues for bigger/tougher jobs, and 8 minutes working time seems like just the right amount for those final clamping adjustments. The biggest difference in working with it is the glued-up joints get sticky pretty fast--making it easier to work with because it holds the pieces in place yet still allows for some movement until the 8 minute mark. The older version seemed more watery initially and not as durable after 24 hours. A substantial overall improvement--worth throwing out the old stuff and replacing it with Titebond III.

  • Cassandra Luna says:

    Almost all of the current wood glues on the market work fairly well; I've used Elmers for years, and I never had any problems. This glue appears to be slightly stronger, but that is an opinion, not supported by any evident facts. My one gripe with all these glues (this one included) is the stupid nozzle gets easily clogged, and then you have a really hard time dispensing the glue. I usually just take the screw off top off and pour it on. If you are working a small area, that is a pain. The glue, like almost all these glues, is water soluble with wet, so it cleans up easily with water. The drying time is relatively short for most purposes, a couple of hours. To get the maximum effect it is wise to put pressure on the two pieces being joined together during the drying time. The glue appears waterproof after it dries, and it sands reasonably well. (But if you leave a bit of glue on the wood and don't sand it all off on exposed surfaces, you will see the glue line over the clear coating you put on top.) So,just be careful you don't get yourself into a sticky situation (a slight bit of punery for you).

  • Shane Rowe says:

    For many years I have been using Titebond II almost exclusively, and to great result, so I thought that Titebond III would have to be pretty outstanding for me to switch. On the first project that I used it on, I was very impressed. In the course of building an arts and crafts inspired coffee table, I needed to glue up six relatively long boards into a panel (the table top). I appreciated two things right away with this glue. First, the long open time meant that I was able to work at a comfortable pace without as much hurrying and stress as that sort of operation usually induces. Second, I appreciated that this glue dries to a light brown color, which blended in well with the general color of my q/s white oak.

    Of course, only having used it for building indoor furniture, I cannot attest to the waterproof nature of this glue, but with all other things - open time, bond strength, color, etc. - I am sold. Titebond III is a winner in my book.

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